Hana - ka makani o ka wahine, loli. I ko mākou manawa, hiki ke loli keʻano o nā loli i nā manawa a pau. Akā pehea keʻano o ka 19-20 haneli no nā kāmaʻa. He aha keʻano o nā kāmaʻa i kāhikoʻia, aʻo wai maoli nō?
I ka pauʻana o ke kenekulia 18, ua hoʻololiʻia kekahi kipi ma Farani. ʻAʻole i pili i ka nohona politika ma ka'āina a meʻEulopa wale nō, akā ua hoʻopiliʻia hoʻi ka hana kāmaʻa. No laila, ma lalo o ka pāpāʻia, kona mau kuʻekuʻe wāwae. ʻAʻole i hoʻokaumaha nā wāhine iā lākou iʻoi aku i ka mau makahiki he kanalima. ʻO nā kāmaʻa wahine o ka wā Napoleona i ko lākou mau hiʻohiʻona e like me nā poʻe hula pāloho o kēia mau lā. I kēlā manawa, ua paʻa ka manaʻo o ka hoʻohaʻahaʻa i ke ala o ka ola ma nā wahi a pau. ʻO kēia mau mea hoʻomanaʻo i nā mea a pau: ke ola, ka nānā aku o ka honua, nā hana, nā lole a me nā kāmaʻa. He nui nā kānaka akeakamai, nā kauka, a me nā kānaka kūlana wale nō i kamaʻilio e pili ana i ka pōʻino i ke olakino o nā kāpili, nā kāmaʻa me nā wāwae kiʻekiʻe a me nā kāmaʻa hāmaʻa. A hoʻolohe iā lākou. Hoʻomaka nā wāhine wahine o Paris e hana i nā lauoho pokole, eʻaʻahu i nāʻaʻahu māmā a hoʻokomo i nā kāmaʻa nani ma kahi pāpale. Akā,ʻaeʻoleʻo Napoleon Bonaparte i kēia mau hana hou. A no laila ua hoʻi hou nāʻaʻahu me nā crinolines a me ka hukiʻana i nā kāleka i keʻano hou. Akā ua haʻalele lākou i nā kāmaʻa me nā kuʻekuʻe kiʻekiʻe. Ua komo nā wāhine a me nā kāmaʻa i nā kāmaʻa i hanaʻia i ka lole siliki, ka'eliʻula a me kaʻiliʻili.
ʻO ka lā ma hope o ka Enlightenment,ʻaʻole i haʻalele i nā kāmaʻa. Ma ka waenakonu o ke kenekulia 19, ua hoʻololiʻia nā kāmaʻa lole leʻaleʻa e nā kāmaʻa i hanaʻia i ka loleʻoluʻolu. Hoʻonuiʻia keʻano, a paʻa. Hōʻike a hoʻomāhuahua aʻe nā hiʻohiʻona i nā lalani a i nā papa. Ma waena o nā kāmaʻa kaulana loa o kēlā manawa, hiki iāʻoe ke kāhea i nā hapalua hāmaʻa ma ke aniani heel. ʻO kēlā mau kāmaʻa haʻahaʻa i hoʻonaniʻia me ka hulu.
ʻO keʻano o ke kenekulia 20 i hoʻololi i kona mauʻokoʻa i nā kāmaʻa. I kēia manawa, hoʻokūpī ka'ūkini i ka hōʻailona o ka wāwae. Hanaʻia nā'onihi asymmetrical. I nā makahiki iwakalua o ka makahiki i hala, ua kaulana loa nā kāmaʻa. Ma hope o ke Kaua Honua Elua, ma keʻano o ka loiloi nui, nā mea hana lole e ho'āʻo i nā mea likeʻole. Hōʻike ka mālamalama i nā hiʻohiʻona o ke kāpena, ka pale, ka manaʻo, ka polyethylene a me ka kapron. ʻAʻole nā kālepa maʻamau, akā ua hoʻomaka nā mea hoʻokani kaulana a me nā mea hoʻolālā e hana i ka hanaʻana i nā kāmaʻa. Akā, no ka mea, he mau hōʻailona mau i hōʻailona o ka pilina pili. No laila ua paʻa nā kāmaʻa paʻa i nā kāmaʻa paʻa me ke kuʻekuʻe wāwae a ua liʻiliʻi i ka wāwae.
Hoʻohanaʻia nāʻano mea likeʻole no ka hanaʻana i nā kāmaʻa: satin, silk,ʻili, kele. Hoʻokomoʻia nā kāmaʻa ma nā kī, ma nā lawaiʻa, ma nā pūhaka, nā makau a me kaʻole o nā pale. ʻO nā kānaka he nui nā kāmaʻa a me nā kolo. I loko o ka papahele he mau hapalua hapalua hoʻi.
Ma Rūsia, heʻanoʻano likeʻole ia keʻano ma mua oʻEulopa. ʻO nā kupa Lūkini, ka poʻe i hana ma ka hoʻomakaʻana o ke kenekulia iwakālua, ua kapaʻia nā piko. ʻO kēia inoa inoa i loaʻa iā lākou no ka mea heʻuʻuku loa kā lākou mau papa hoʻonāahi a hūnāʻia mai ka poʻe. Ua hana nā haku e like me nā'īlio haeʻewa - no laila ka inoa. ʻO ka hapa nui o nā hale kāmaʻa i Marina Grove. Maʻaneʻi,ʻaʻole i lele nā mea hoʻolālā wale nō mai nā moku a pauʻo Russia, akā mai ka'āina'ē aku.
Ma keʻano laulā, he waiwai nui ke kenekulia 20 i nā hana hou, e like me ke kāmaʻa lole. I loko o nā makahiki he hala i hala aku nei, ua hanaʻia nāʻano hoʻohālike a me nāʻano kāmaʻa e like me kā mākou mau kūpuna i weheweheʻole ai no nā manawa a pau. ʻO nāʻenehana a me nā pono hou o kēia manawa ua hoʻohaʻahaʻa i ka hana o ka hana lole. Ua hoʻonui ka hana. I kēia lā,ʻaneʻane heʻeiwa pule ma keʻano nui o ka'ōmaʻa kāmaʻa hou. ʻAʻole nā kumuhana o nā kāpena hou o ka hana kāmaʻa i palenaʻoleʻia e kekahi mea. No laila, hiki iā lākou keʻike i kekahi manaʻo, kekahi manaʻo.
ʻO kēia keʻano o ka makahiki 19-20 no nā kāmaʻa. He kiʻi liʻiliʻi wale kēia i ka moʻolelo o nā kāmaʻa. Ma keʻano laulā, kokoke i kēlā me kēia hoʻolālā, kēlā me kēiaʻano kāmaʻa i kona iho liʻiliʻi, a he mea nui paha. Kūloli mau keʻano aʻaʻole maopopo i ka mea e hiki i ka manaʻo i nā mea hana, a me nā mea e komo ai mākou i loko o kekahi mau makahiki.