Ua hoʻomaka ka moʻolelo o ka meaʻala o Rūma, e like me kā lākou e'ōlelo nei, "no ka olakino". ʻO nā meaʻala o ka'āina'ē, ka poʻe i laʻaʻole ma ko lākou'āina, neʻe aku lākou i Rusia, kahi i wehe ai me ka ikaika a me ke poʻo. Ae, aʻo nā "nosees" o Lūkini, ua aʻo pono lākou ma waho a hana paha e like me nā haumāna likeʻole, "hāʻawi" i ko lākou'āina'āina i kā lākou mau taleni. Ma ka hopena o ka XIX - hoʻomaka o ka XX XXL, ua piʻo nā inoa o A. Ferrein ma loko o ka'āina, aʻo nā mea kūʻai o ka hale o Imperial -ʻo A. Ostroumov, G. Brokar, A. Ralle, a me A. Siu - uaʻikeʻia ma Russia wale nō, akā ma waho. No laila, ua kaulanaʻo Alexander Ostroumov i ka haʻona savuma mai dandruff, a ma hope ua weheʻo ia i kāna hale hana hanaʻala.
ʻO ka "nose" kaulanaʻo Alfons Ralle i hoʻolako i ka meaʻala o Rūma -ʻo nā hua kūponoʻaʻole wale i ka Pelekānāwai Imperial, akā i ka Mō'ī Palani o Peresia a me kona Aliʻi Kiʻekiʻe Luna Chernogorsky. Ua hāhā kona manawa i hōʻailona ai i ka Emblem Lumina o Rusia -ʻo ka lanakila kiʻekiʻe loa, i hāʻawiʻia no nā huahana kiʻekiʻe. Aia ma kahiʻoihana "A. Ralle a me Co. "i hoʻomakaʻo ia ma keʻano he mea nānā iā Ernest Bo (mea kākau o Chanel Nānā 5). Ināʻaʻole no ka hoʻokahuli i hoʻokuʻuʻia ai ke kanaka mea akamai keaka, e laweʻo ia i ka pou o ke alakaʻi o ka hui, aʻaʻoleʻikeʻia ka mea e pili ana i ka "world perfume deck". ʻO kekahi pīpī hou kālai'āinaʻo Rūmaʻo Heinrich Brokar. ʻO kēia "nee" he kanaka maoliʻo Farani. I kona hōʻeaʻana i Rusia, ua weheʻo ia i kānaʻoihana pono'ī a hoʻomaka hoʻomaka e hanaʻole i ka meaʻala, akāʻo ka'opapī pālolo. He nui nā mea i hanaʻia e Henry, kāna wahineʻo Charlotte. ʻO ia ka mea nāna i hoʻonāuki iā ia i kahi koho lanakila: e kūʻai aku i kahiʻona "makana" maikaʻi (ʻo kahiʻano likeʻole) -'anopoe a me nā huapalapala o ka huapalapala. Ua lilo ka hoʻolaha Brokarovskaya i mea hoʻohenehene. I ka weheʻana o kekahi o nā hale kūʻai, hāʻawi akula kaʻaha i nā mea kūʻai aku i "kūʻai kūʻai kūʻaiʻana:ʻo kahi wale nō he mau meaʻumi,ʻo ia hoʻi ka meaʻala, ka cologne, ke kukini, ka wilile wilika, ka palaʻalepa, ka lepo, ka pīpī, ka lole, lipstick, a me ke kopa. ʻO ka haʻalulu ka mea e pono ai nā mākaʻi e pani i ka hale kūʻai.
ʻO kekahi hoʻolaha'ē aʻe o ka meaʻala Līpī - nā huaʻaʻala - cologne "Flower" - ka mea i hoʻonāueue i ka Moscow holoʻokoʻa. Ma ke HōʻikeʻOihana Hui a me nā HanaʻOihana a pau, ua kūkuluʻia he puna wai "hoʻonāukiuki," kahi e hiki ai i kekahi ke kau i ka haʻaweka, ka mīkina lima a me ke kapa'ahuʻula. Ua lilo ka manaʻo i mea maikaʻi loa i ka liloʻana o "Flower" i ka cologne mua loa o Russia. I ka hikiʻana mai o Grand Duchessʻo Maria Aleksandrovna i Moscow no ka mākaʻikaʻi, hāʻawiʻo Brokar iā ia me kahi pua paʻakai - pua nani, nā līlia o ke awāwa, nā violetā, a me nā kāpili. A ua hoʻopiliʻia kēlā pua kēia pua me kahiʻala likeʻole. Ua hāʻawiʻo Admired Maria Aleksandrovna i ka mea hanahana i ka inoa o kāna mea hoʻolako.
Ua ulu nui ka pilina "Brokar a me" i kapaʻia kaʻalani Lūkini "ʻo Brokar Empire", a ua kūʻaiʻia kāna meaʻala no ke kūʻaiʻana i nā'āina'Elepa nui. Ma nāʻanoʻahaʻaina'ē aʻe o ka honua, ua loaʻa i nā halehana he 14 mau mekala gula, ua lilo i mea hoʻolaha no ka Hale Hoʻokolokolo Pelekāniaʻo Russia, akā no ka hale aliʻi Pelekane, a ma luna o ka hōʻailona o ke kāpenaʻekolu mau hōʻailona moku'āina, e hōʻoiaʻiʻo ana i ka maikaʻi loa o nā waiwai.
Inā hoʻomakaʻo Brokar ma keʻano he kopa, laila ka mea hana pālolo Adolf Siu -ʻoiai he mea hana i nā'ōwili a me nā pōpō. Ma muli o ka loaʻaʻana o ke kālā kūpono ma kaʻoihana kūʻai, ua hoʻoholoʻo Siu e hana i ka meaʻala a no laila ua hoʻomakaʻo ia e hoʻolako i ka Imperial Courtʻaʻole wale i kāna mau pōpō, akā me nā meaʻala. ʻO kāna meaʻala i ka'āpana o "meaʻala kiʻekiʻe" aʻaʻole i loaʻa i nā mea a pau. I ka pōkole, ua ulu aʻe kaʻoihana puhiʻala ma Rūkū mua. A laila ua pohā ka makahiki 1917 ...
ʻO nā wāhine o ka hoʻomaka o ka XX XX e pili ana i nā akua o A. Ostroumov, Ekaterina Geltser, ka hula hulaʻo Bolshoi: "Ke hula nei au i ka" Corsair ", ke hoʻohana mau nei au i kaʻaila'alaʻula ..." Elena Podolskaya, ke mele mele: "ʻO kouʻaila maikaʻi" hoʻopuni mai iaʻu me kahi hauʻoli hauʻoli Ke hele nei wau, e like me nā moeʻuhane o nā puaʻala. " ʻO Raisa Reisen, ka mea hoʻokani o ka Maly Theatre: "Inā ua pauʻo Napoleon i ka Napoleon hoʻomaʻamaʻa,ʻaʻoleʻo Josephine e kumakaia iā ia."
Phoenix, hoʻi hou mai ka lehu
Lūkini hoʻopūlaʻi Russia ... Ma ka papahana: ka hoʻopauʻiaʻana o nā bourgeois. A me nā meaʻala o ka meaʻala maikaʻi - nāʻoihana maikaʻi loa o nāʻoihana bourgeois. Ke hoʻomaha nei ka'āina hou i ka uahi o nā hale hana, kahi wela maikaʻi a me ka kino maʻemaʻe. ʻO nā koa kaua Red Army a me nā kānaka wale nō ka hamo - aʻaʻohe mea'ē aʻe. ʻO nā mea i koe he koena bourgeois. ʻO ka hopena, ua loaʻa nā papa hana loiloi i nā helu presinal a lilo i loko o ke kopa. Ua lilo ka huiʻo Ralle i "Kahua Soap Plant No. 4", a ma hope iho - Soap State a me Cosmetic Factory "Svoboda". Ua hoʻoliloʻiaʻo "Brokar" i ka'opapi a me ka lāʻauʻaila poni 5 "(ma hope aku o" New Zarya ")," Siu "- ma ka halehana" Bolshevik "," Bodlo a me Co "- ma ka halehana" Dawn ".
I loko o ka manawa NEP, ua hoʻomaka houʻia ka hanaʻala o ka meaʻala, akā, ma ka wāʻo Stalin, ua holo koke ka hopena. ʻO ka wahine nani loa o ka Soviet elite,ʻo ka "wahine lua o ka USSR", ka wahine a Molotov,ʻo Polina Zhemchuzhina, i komo i ka "hakakā" me Stalin no ka meaʻala. Ua paniʻo ia i ka luna mua o ka "New Dawn" A. Zvezdov, ua hoʻololiʻia i kahi kūlana'ē aʻe. Ma hope mai, ua alakaʻiʻia ka Pearl e ka hilinaʻi "Fatness", hui pū i nā meaʻala a pau a me nāʻoihana hoʻoponopono, a he mau makahiki ma hope mai, ua hoʻonohoʻiaʻo ia i poʻo o ke Kuhina nui o ka meaʻala, ka mea hoʻopono, ka meaʻenehana a me ka'ōpopa. ʻO Polina Zhemchuzhina ka mea nāna i koi aku iā Stalin eʻole e hoʻopau i ka meaʻala, ua hiki iā ia ke hōʻoia i ka "meaʻala maikaʻi he wahi hoʻolaha, pono a pono no ka poʻe." A ua hoʻohuliʻo ia i ka "makua o nā kānaka" e hāʻawi i ka "maikaʻi" i ka meaʻala o kaʻaila nui. No laila, ua loaʻa i ka līpī Lūkini kahi ola lua, maikaʻi loa.
I ka makahiki 1930, ua laweʻia e ka "New Dawn" nā mea hana kūpono o ka meaʻala o Rūma - nā huahana maikaʻi a me ka hanaʻana - nāʻoihana momona o nā hale kūʻai "Svoboda" a me "Bolshevik". No laila, ua loaʻa ka "New Dawn" i ka mālama pono i ka hanaʻana i nā meaʻala. Aia kekahi mau meaʻala a me nā mea hoʻonani i nā moku'āinaʻo Union, akā,ʻaʻole lākou i wehewehe i ka "kulekeleʻoihana o ka" pāʻina.
Ma ka papahana o nā hale hanaʻalani he nīnau nui: pehea e hōʻoia ai i kaʻikeʻana o nāʻuhane i ke kulekele o ka pāʻina? Ua hanaʻia i ka papahana nui loa: hoʻopoina i nā moma me nā meaʻano'ē aʻe. Pono nā'Aromona e ka poʻe hana,ʻo ia hoʻi he mea maʻalahi, hoʻomaopopo a "hoʻoikaika i ke aloha no ka Makualand". He nui nā poʻe i kēia lā e hoʻomaopopo nei heʻano koʻikoʻi a koʻikoʻi nāʻuhane o ke kau Soviet, a he mau mea palekana ka papaʻa momona.
Eia naʻe, ma keʻano haʻahaʻa, i kēlā me kēia lā, ua 'lanakila kaʻailaʻala i nā kūlana pohō. Mai ka brokal "bins" i hoʻopoinaʻia nā kumuhana, ua laweʻia nā "noses" no nā hoʻokolohua, kahi i kūkuluʻia ai ka "elite perfumery". Ua hoʻi houʻo Phoenix mai ka lehu. ʻO keʻano maoli, ua hoʻokaniʻia ka violin mua e ka "New Dawn", a hauʻoli hoʻi kona mauʻuhane i ka kaulana kaulana (maikaʻi,ʻaʻohe hoʻokūkī, aʻo nā mea'ē aʻeʻaʻole i moeʻuhane i kekahi kanaka Soviet). Ua hōʻike aku ka hui i kāna mau hōʻailona ma nāʻahaʻaina honua a ua loaʻa iā ia nā hōʻailona kūlana. I kēia lā,ʻo ka huikala kaulana kaulana - "Red Moscow", "Black Box", "Blue Casket". Ua ulu aʻe ka'āina'āpana Lūkini, a me kekahiʻoihana ma hope o ka "Iron Curtain" i ka neleʻana o nā mea hakakā paʻakikī. I kēia manawa ua'ōkani houʻia kekahi hekili - ka hōʻeha kālā, ka emiʻana o ka hana, ka hinaʻana o ka USSR ...
Hoʻohui houʻia
I ka wā i nininiʻia ai nā hua o nā huahana o ka Pākīpika i ka māleke o ka'āina, ua hikiʻole i nā hui Lūkini e hana i ka mea'alapī Līkini -ʻo nā huaʻaʻalaʻaʻole hiki ke kū i ka hoʻokūkū a hele i loko o nā malu. ʻO kaʻoiaʻiʻo, ma hope o ka emiʻana o ka hoʻolālāʻana, e hoʻomaka ana nā haku Lūkini e hoʻomaka i "mai ka'ōpala" - e aʻo mai ke Komohana mai, e hoʻomanaʻo i nāʻano hana a "kupuna kāne" a e ho'āʻo e kūkulu i ko lākou ala pono'ī i ka meaʻala poni. Eia naʻe,ʻo ka ho'ōla houʻana i nā kuʻuna haʻalulu hoʻomana he hana alohaʻole. ʻO nā kumuhana i hoʻomohala i hoʻokahi haneli mau makahiki i hala aku nei a ua kauʻia wale nō ma kahi palena liʻiliʻi o nā mea kūlohelohe, uaʻanoʻelemakule a "nānā",ʻo ia hoʻi, he kahiko. ʻO nā keʻena liʻiliʻi i loko o nā keʻena kino he meaʻuʻuku iho i ke Komohana ma keʻano o nā lakohana aʻaʻole hiki iā lākou ke hana i nā mea i hoʻopiliʻia. Eia kekahi, ua nui nā hale hana hana hewa i hana ai i nā mea momona maikaʻi, a uaʻikeʻia ka nui o nā palani. ʻO ka hopena, ua hope loa ka hilinaʻiʻana o ka mea kūʻai Lūkini ma nā "polikino" a makemakeʻo ia e hoʻohana i nā huahana o nā hui komohana. I kēia lā,ʻano likeʻole nā meaʻala o ka hale me he keiki kūponoʻole. ʻO nā ho'āʻo kūponoʻole e pānaʻi i ka mea kūʻai e lawelaweʻia e ka "New Dawn", a iʻole paha, kahi noho hou aku - "New Etoile". ʻO nā meaʻala mua i kekahi manawa e hopohopoʻia me ko lākou inoa inoaʻole. "Ka manawa o kahi wahine," "The Mania of the Night", "Beautiful Beautiful", "The Shaman Charming", "The Life in the Pink", "Follow Me in the Night" - sounds like a mockery. Ma nā meaʻala'ē aʻe, ua'ōleloʻia nā poʻe akamai, "nā kapuahi" o nā akua o ke Komohana: "Kuʻi Kuznetsk" e like me ka Honua mai Lancome, "nani Russian" - iā Coco Mademoiselle mai Chanel, "Talisman o ke aloha" - iā Angel e Thierry Mugler. ʻO ka hoʻolālāʻana o nā pōkole a me nā hue - nā mea hōʻoluʻolu a me nā meaʻono -ʻoi loa aku ma lalo o ka hoʻolālā haole. ʻAe, a me nā lau hoʻolaha nui i makemakeʻia. Ma kahi hua'ōlelo, inā hoʻoholo nā meaʻoihana home e hoʻoholo hope loa i ka mea kūʻai (aʻoi aku ka mana o nā mana'ē aʻe ma luna o 60% o ka mākaʻi "Russian" i kēia lā), he koʻikoʻi ke kaua. Eia naʻe, ke hoʻomaka wale nei ka "haneliʻekolu" o ka mea'alapī Lūkini, a paha paha, e piʻi hou i kahi kiʻekiʻe, kahi i hāʻule mua ai.
KEKAHI HOU
ʻAʻole ia he hui'ē aku, akāʻo kā kākou pono pono'īʻo "New Dawn". Ua hui like ka hui me nā poʻe Palani no nā makahiki heʻumi, a ua hoʻomohalaʻia nā mea ala he nui o ka halehana i nā hale wehewehe French. ʻO ka hoʻomauʻana o kēia hanaʻana,ʻo ia ka inoa inoa o ka hui.